Visit Pantelleria and its Natural Hot Springs
- Nature Source Chaude
- Published on
- Updated on 24 April 2025
Closer to the African coast than the « mainland » of Sicily, Pantelleria is the largest of the Sicilian islands, but also the most remote. This solitary island in the Mediterranean is fascinating not only for its rugged beauty, but also for the many untapped hot springs, located in inconvenient places (sea, lake).
In fact, the island of Pantelleria, which has no shortage of elegance, is a spa with a wide range of natural thermal treatments. During my stay of a few days, I invite you to discover the thermal wealth of this island of volcanic origin, nicknamed ‘the Black Pearl of the Mediterranean’.
IN SUMAMRY:
How to get to the island ?
To reach Pantelleria in the low season, you must take a Siremar ferry from Trapani. The crossing is once a day. Tickets can be booked at the port of Trapani or online via the official website (directferries). Without a vehicle, the ticket cost me 47 euros. A shuttle (a minibus) picks up passengers without a vehicle outside the agency two hours before departure. It will then drop you off near the ferry, which is docked at the port exit (saving you a 45-minute walk). The crossing takes about seven hours and takes place at night.
During the high season (from 1 June to September), Liberty Lines (official website here) offers a 2.5-hour hydrofoil (speedboat) crossing. The agency is located in front of the port.
Pantelleria also has a small airport with daily flights. There are flights from Palermo, Trapani and Catania (twice a week).
How to get around Pantelleria?
There are several car hire companies on the island. Vehicles can be rented for less than €30 per day. Scooters and electric bikes are also available.
Alternatively, public transport (official website and timetables: Marsala Travel Bus) allows you to get around the main roads of the island. That’s what I did.
In the south of the island the bus will take you to the village of Rekhale and in the north to the village of Tracino.
There is also a service to the airport. Tickets can be bought from the driver and cost €1.30 (€1.80 in 2025).
Buses leave from the post office. The post office is just 200 metres from the Castle of Pantelleria, a colossal structure that stands majestically on the seafront.
In a way, this building marks the identity of the island. It was the beginning of my journey into this territory of 7,000 inhabitants.
Built (the castle) of lava stone (hence the nickname ‘Black Pearl’), it is a striking contrast to the other buildings in the port, which are constructed of more conventional, ‘modern’ materials.
But here we are in the capital of the island: the town of Pantelleria. This volcanic stone has many advantages: it doesn’t deteriorate, it can withstand the island’s harsh climate and weather conditions, it is economical and requires no maintenance.
This castle, which houses a museum, may be of historical interest to visitors to the island.
Map of the hot springs of the island of Pantelleria and information
The map shows the location of the island’s hot springs, which are a must during your stay.
When to go to Pantelleria ? From April to October.
Another point : the more crowded it is, the more difficult it can be to get a bath or a place in certain thermal sites where space is relatively limited (Gadir Baths, Sataria and Benikulà).
Grotta di Sataria
Leaving the town of Pantelleria by bus, I noticed that many of the houses scattered around the hills have lava stone walls. In fact, these particular buildings, typical of the island, are known as Dammuso. You can feel the influence of an Arab civilisation that exploited the island’s powerful resources.
Ten minutes later, the bus dropped me off near the sign for the Grotta di Sataria (Sataria Cave ).
This stop precedes the one at the entrance to the village of Scauri. There are 4 or 5 parking spaces just opposite the bus stop. You’ll find the Sataria Cave descending a staircase along the steep coast (which is illuminated at night).
Outside the cave, there is a large pool where you can swim in slightly less turbulent seawater. This is also one of the most accessible beaches (Spiaggia di Sataria) on the island of Pantelleria.
The cave was closed by the authorities in 2012 for safety reasons. It had not been maintained and was in poor condition.
Thanks to various grants totalling 559,000 euros, it has been possible to restore the site (work will start in September 2023) and make it safe so that it can be reopened to the public from June 2024.
At the time of my first visit in February 2024 (when the safety work was underway), the cave was in a poor state of repair. Its damaged concrete platform and falling rocks from the vault (metal mesh had been installed) made it very dangerous. Repairs were urgently needed, as you can see from the photos taken in January 2024.
Once inside, you must cross the concrete platform to reach two pools of hot water full of mystery.
The colour of the concrete platform adds an aesthetic touch to the cave. The pastel colour also reflects the light better.
It was still relatively dark when I approached the hot water pools. The light from my torch (smartphone) was essential to see the contours of the pools and to secure my steps. There is very little natural light. I would recommend visiting on a clear day (especially in winter) or bringing a camping lantern (or a storm lamp for more natural light).
These pools may contain algae washed in from the sea, which is best removed. These algae are mixed with thermal water of about 40 degrees. However, one of the 2 pools is cooled down (to around 32 degrees) by the infiltration of sea water. A few metres away, the sea rushes into the cave. This creates a very special echo.
Could you be surprised by the rising tide when you go for a bath? To be on the safe side, it is easy to check the daily tide times in Pantelleria on the Internet.
Finally, all night long, the view of the pools illuminated by LED spotlights (even under water) is a real eye-catcher. You can even see the clarity of the water.
As water acts as a resonator for external energy and as a receiver of environmental information, the specific properties of thermal water are modified and reduced.
Artificial light also disturbs the microorganisms that are an integral part of the hot spring – the microbiota.
This thermal water (sodium chloride), used since ancient times to treat rheumatism, skin diseases, arthritis, etc., therefore loses its therapeutic properties (at night). Nevertheless, this type of nocturnal thermal bath, located right by the sea, offers visitors a unique and unsettling experience.
Terme di Nikà
I continued on foot towards the Terme di Nikà, where the thermal waters flow into the sea. They are just a few kilometres from the village of Scauri.
The road was so quiet that I didn’t see any tourists. I walked alone for an hour and a half along a winding road lined with Mediterranean scrub, with a lovely view of the sea as my reward.
This Mediterranean haven is perfect for those seeking peace and quiet.
I then left this charming road and take a stony path that leads to the cove of Nikà. At the beginning of the path there is a dirt car park where you can leave your car (6 or 7 spaces). Then the path becomes impassable.
After a fifteen minute descent on foot, I saw the cove and was amazed to see old abandoned rafts. I watched the sea crash against the rocky shore. That day, the weather forecast had predicted winds of between 20 and 30 km/h. The deep sinuosity of the coastline and the light breeze pushed the waves up against the rocks.
However, I had no trouble getting over the rocks to the cliff on the left. But you have to swim around it. The Nikà hot springs are behind this cliff, about 200 metres away. As I’m not a good swimmer, I decided not to risk it for fear of being swept away by the currents.
Alternatively, the site can be reached by boat (in the summer) or, in calm weather, by swimming.
Almost at the beginning of the path leading down to the cove, an abandoned dammuso can be seen on the left. The Terme di Nikà are a short distance below.
But there is no really wide or comfortable path across the rocky coast. So, it’s best to stay away from the Terme di Nikà outside the summer months, and stick to the Sataria Cave or the Baths of Gadir, which are completely safe.
🤿 If you dive into the sea, you can observe the rocks from which hot water gushes out (don’t forget your mask and goggles).
This thermal water, rich in minerals, mixes with the cold sea water, nourishing it and giving it undeniable therapeutic virtues. The water temperature can reach 40 degrees in some places. In winter, however, the sudden change from hot to cold can be uncomfortable for some bathers.
Bagno Asciutto - Grotta di Benikulá
A beautiful walk to the cave of Benikulà
To reach to the Grotta di Benikulà (Benikulà cave), also known as Bagno Asciutto (dry bath), I walked back to the village of Scauri. Above the village there is a large car park paved with lava stones, which is the starting point for many walks.
The island of Pantelleria is particularly hilly. Its highest point, Montagna Grande, is 860 metres above sea level.
A well-marked path leads to the cave in about ten minutes, past cacti, holm oaks and beautiful Mediterranean flora, with the sea in the distance. The beauty of the path and the natural decoration (low volcanic stone walls, wooden fences) give the impression of being in a garden.
Discover the natural sauna
Hidden in the cave, I discovered this vaporarium, which is like a real “natural sauna”. This natural steam room, which emits steam and gases, is explained by the intermittent rise of thermal water from a natural underground spring. This water is filtered through the rock walls and the result is a gentle, humid heat of 38°C.
After putting on a bathrobe, I entered the cave for my steam shower (dry bath). I sat down on some rocks on the floor. Less than two minutes later, I was sweating profusely. I came out with a fresh, rejuvenated face.
You can lose up to a litre or more of sweat per session (10 to 15 minutes is recommended). The sauna is very effective. The vaporarium is a powerful and complete metabolic stimulator. The body speeds up blood circulation, perspiration, ventilation and the elimination of toxins.
For the more sensitive, it is possible to lie on the floor under the vapours, making the experience more tolerable. This is what the Finns do in their artificial sauna. The benches are arranged in tiers around the room, and the more energetic bathers lie down on the upper tiers (the vapours rise naturally).
The cave holds 5 or 6 people.
Outside, the chamber next to the cave is the frigidarium. In the history of bathing, the frigidarium was often the last exercise for the bather. The bather must return to a room near the entrance or exit.
Here, a terrace surrounded by stone benches allows the bathers to return to their normal body temperature after a powerful cool-down.
In the meantime, you can admire the beauty of the landscape and the enchanting panorama (the plain of Monastero and its crops, the sea).
The best sauna ?
The Benikulà cave represents an unrivalled level of sauna sophistication.
It’s thanks to the Pantelleria volcanoes, which never cease to heat up, that the cave is filled with beneficial vapours. There’s no need to heat a fireplace with wood for 3 hours and then throw buckets of water on glowing stones. This natural sauna is free of charge and open 24 hours a day.
A large opening (the entrance to the cave) also serves to evacuate the excess carbon dioxide, ensuring good ventilation. I found a level of 500 ppm CO2 at the bottom of the cave. If you would like to know more about the importance of air renewal and adequate levels of CO₂ in a room, I invite you to read this article: How to Cleanse your Lungs with Simple, Natural Ways ?
The cave is also a living medium rich in micro-organisms (good bacteria and fungi), even more so when there is humidity. On the other hand, high humidity can be a problem in “artificial spaces”, as it encourages the proliferation of moulds and fungal spores, which can be harmful to the respiratory tract.
Finally, the air is more ionised. A cave releases mineral salts that are full of negative ions.
Therapeutic properties
This natural sauna is used by tourists and locals alike to treat rheumatism. There is another sauna on the island, in the Grotto dei Briganti (Bandits Cave). The Favare can also be used as a sauna.
In addition to the benefits you’d expect from a sauna, the invigorating thermal vapours and gases (from the caves and the Favares) are good for the respiratory system.
These fumes release a mixture of gases with stable concentrations and ratios. According to an analytical report[1] published in 1994, there are high concentrations (several thousand ppm) of hydrogen (H2) and methane (CH₄). Methane is also present in lower concentrations in all the hot springs of the island.
There are also varying amounts of helium, depending on the favare. Concentrations of 10 ppm and more have been recorded. Its (natural) concentration in the atmosphere is around 5 ppm.
All these gases: hydrogen (H2), helium (He), methane (CH₄) have particularly interesting properties for the treatment of the respiratory tract. To find out more, I invite you to read our article How to Cleanse your Lungs with Simple, Natural Ways ?
Favare
From the cave of Benikulà, I continued my walk along an easy, well-marked path, following the route of the “Favare Grande“. The Favare is an intermittent emission of steam and gas produced by the volcanic activity of Pantelleria. The temperature can reach 100°C.
The trail to the Favares Volcanic Activity Zone winds through a beautiful plateau and takes about 50 minutes. This place is a geothermal wonder where you can see numerous fumaroles (favares).
Just before you reach Favare Grande, the fumaroles (‘Fumarole della Vecchia Caserma’) emit impressive vapours from a slab next to a disused building (an old military barracks made of lava stone), which is well worth a stop. This former barracks is located on a hill just off the signposted path. But it’s still accessible in less than 2 minutes.
On the surface you can see a large number of fissures from which steam escapes.
If you go to the ‘Favare Grande’ site, about ten minutes away, the scene is similar. But one of them is a real marmite. This is Favare Grande, the most spectacular of all. This is where you realise that if you get a little too close, your body will get wet and then quickly soaked. In fact, the locals use it as a natural sauna. Wooden planks resting on stones on either side are evidence of its use.
I admired the scenery one last time and then decided to take another signposted path perpendicular to the one leading to Favare. This took me directly to Rekhale (near Scauri) via a fairly rapid descent.
The Baths of Gadir
On the north side of the island, a road provides direct access to the sea and the charming village of Gadir. Needless to say, access to the sea is easier here than elsewhere, and the hot springs attract crowds who can’t resist a dip. Parking is also easy (large car park).
If you don’t have a car, the bus (Pantelleria-Tracino line) will drop you off at the ‘Bivio Kamma Gadir’ stop, less than a kilometre away (10 minutes walk).
Arriving on the coast, the landscape is elegant, with white roofs and terraces overlooking the sea.
The vaulted, whitewashed roofs of these dammusi (island houses) allow rainwater (scarce on the island) to be collected in cisterns.
When I arrived at the 3 hot water pools, there were no regulars or strangers around. In this small fishing port, there is an air of calm, cleanliness and comfort in the month of January.
These 2 hot water pools are very popular when the harbour is busy, so you’ll need to be patient. These shallow pools are for 1 person. The hot water comes in at the bottom and is perfectly clear. The 2 smaller pools have a lower temperature (variable) than the larger pool (55 degrees). Their connection to the sea allows the user to choose the desired temperature. In any case, these hot thermal waters must be cooled by the sea water.
A little further along the coast (200 metres away), there is a large area protected by a jetty where bathers can soak in the warm water and get some exercise.
At the time of my first visit (January 2024), there were strong currents crossing the jetty. However, the temperature of the pool, which is warmed by thermal water rising from the ground, was around 25 degrees (a little low in winter). In summer, people who like to splash around or chat might prefer to take a dip in the large pool rather than the smaller ones.
Also, it was only on my second visit to the island (January 2025) that the three small natural hot water pools near the rocks were visible.
The Gadir springs (like the Sataria spring) all produce fine bubbles that rise to the surface. They contain dissolved CO₂ and are enriched with bicarbonate ions, which give them special properties. These thermal waters are said to cure rheumatism, arthritis and skin diseases.
Arco dell'Elefante
Just 4 or 5 kilometres from Gadir is the village of Tracino. From here, a fairly quick descent leads to one of the most famous places on the island of Pantelleria: the Arco dell’Elefante (Elephant Arch).
The rocky coastline here, formed in steps, offers beautiful lines that make up a magnificent landscape. The road brings you very close to the sea and provides easy access to some of the most popular coves : Cala Levante and Cala Tramontana.
In this incredible landscape, a bridge that looks like an “elephant’s trunk” juts out over the sea and delights the eye. In fact, this picturesque spot so aptly justifies its name: Arco dell’Elefante (Elephant Arch). This is also the place to see a great natural spectacle: the sunrise.
Lago Specchio di Venere
To reach Lake Specchio di Venere (Mirror of Venus), take the bus (Pantelleria-Tracino line) and get off at the Bivio Lago di Venere stop, which is ten minutes’ walk away.
Once there, you’ll be rewarded with a splendid panorama. This cone, an ancient volcano, is home to a heart-shaped mass of rainwater and thermal water. In other words, this lake brings a touch of freshness to the traveller.
The lake, which is 12 metres deep, is partly fed by thermal water from three springs. These hot waters flow at temperatures between 30°C and 60°C and are almost all concentrated on the southern shore, where the lake narrows slightly between wooded hills.
One of them has these waters that come out of the rock, in a place surrounded by reeds. It is called Sorgente termale del lago (thermal spring of the lake). This spring has a temperature of over 50 degrees, a low flow rate and recognised therapeutic virtues. However, there is no stone basin on the site.
Mixing with the rainwater changes the water and causes it to lose some of its gas. At this time of year the lake is at its highest level and the water is cold. Stone pools (cold water) are submerged in the lake water. Do you have to wait for the seasonal evaporation to enjoy the lake? Not necessarily.
The lake remains rich in minerals (chlorides, sodium, magnesium, lithium, potassium…) throughout the year.
It is also known for its abundance of nutritious natural mud. This can also be found on one of the sandy banks of the lake (the western bank).
In two places you’ll find a high concentration of footprints, accompanied by a slight smell of rotten eggs (presence of sulphur in the form of gas).
It’s also the only place on the island where you can smell rotten eggs.
The bathers collect sulphur mud and apply it to their bodies. I imagine that this clay, which has been exposed to air, sun and water for a long time, must be rich in active ingredients.
But you have to be careful about rinsing your skin before it dries, because this bad habit can actually be harmful and irritate the skin. What’s more, these sulphur muds are not inexhaustible.
Reference
Walter D’alessandro, Gaetano Dongarraà, Sergio Gurrierp, Franco Parello, Mariano Valenza Janvier 1994 Geochemical characterization of naturally occurring fluids on the island of Pantelleria (Italy)
